IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


■-  m 

Hi  M 


I.I 


2.5 

1.8 


1.25      1.4 

1.6 

< 6"     — 

► 

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k 


V. 


<? 


/2 


^;j 


'<?j 


■c^: 


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cjM 


Photographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


23  WFST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

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A 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHIVI/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notas/Notes  tachniques  et  bibliographiquat 


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reproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  change 
the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  checked  below. 


D 

D 
D 
D 

□ 


n 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  da  couieur 

Covers  damaged/ 
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Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couvertura  restaurie  et/ou  pelliculie 

Cover  tit!e  missing/ 

Le  titre  de  *  '^uverture  manque 

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Encre  da  couieur  (i.e.  autre  que  bieue  ou  noire) 

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Bound  with  other  material/ 
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de  cet  exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-^tre  uniques  du 
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sont  indiquis  ci-dessous. 


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Only  edition  available/ 
Seuie  Edition  disponible 


r~2  Showthrough/ 

I      I  Quality  of  print  varies/ 

n~|  Includes  supplementary  material/ 

r~~]  Only  edition  available/ 


D 


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ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  partiellement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata,  une  pelure, 
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obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


^ 


Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  supplimentaires; 


Irregular  pagination  :   [1],  9  - 15, 19  -  25,  29  -  37,  39  -  47,  51  -  57,  [1]  p. 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  filmd  au  taux  de  rMuction  indiquf*  ci-dessous. 

10X  14X  18X  22X 


2SX 


30X 


12X 


16X 


20X 


24X 


28X 


32X 


The  copy  filmed  hare  has  bean  reproduced  thanks 
to  the  generosity  of: 

Seminary  of  Quebec 
Library 


L'exemplaire  filmA  fut  reproduit  grAce  h  la 
gAn^rositA  de: 

Siminaire  de  Quebec 
BibliotMqua 


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filming  contract  specifications. 


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plus  grand  soin,  compte  tenu  da  la  condition  at 
de  la  nettetA  da  I'exemplaira  filmi,  at  en 
conformity  avec  las  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


Les  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprimis  sont  film6s  en  commen^ant 
par  le  premier  plat  at  en  terminnnt  soit  par  la 
derniire  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration.  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  salon  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  filmAs  en  commen9ant  par  la 
premiAra  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  derniire  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  —»- (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED ").  or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 


Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaitra  sur  la 
darniire  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbols  — »>  signifie  "A  SUIVRE '.  le 
symbols  V  signifie  "FIN". 


Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagram*  illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  4tre 
film6s  A  des  tarix  de  reduction  diffirents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  fttre 
reprodi'it  en  un  seul  clich6.  il  est  U\mi  A  partir 
de  Tangle  suptrieur  gauche,  de  gauche  d  droite, 
et  de  haut  <tn  bas.  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  nticessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  mithode. 


1 

2 

3 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

P  Leaping  Ouananiche 


What  It  Is, 
Where,  When  and  How  to  Catch  It^^^^^^, 


By  EUGENE  B|a|pi¥att^^^^^ets^fe. 

3,  ^®  %  Q^^' 


A    First    Word 

So  LiTTLF,  has  been  written  about  ouananiche  fishing,  its 
modes  and  its  merits,  its  charms  and  its  rewards,  that  there 
is  call  for  a  handbook  of  specific  information  concerning  the 
fisii  and  of  definite  instructions  in  the  art  of  its  enticement. 
Impelled  by  the  obligation  which  rests  upon  every  sportsman 
to  give  his  fellows  in  the  craft  the  fruit  of  his  own  experience 
and  knowledge,  I  have  prepared  this  brochure.  Its  purpose 
is  to  put  into  compact  and  intelligent  form  all  that  n\-iy  be 
necessary  for  the  guidance  of  newcomers  in  the  picturesque 
liaunts   of   this   noble   game   fisli. 

The  volume  is  dedicated  to  my  fellow  sportsmen;  to  all 
those  who  may  find  in  it  practical  helpfulness;  to  all  who  in 
the  freedom  and  freshness  of  the  woods  may  give  over  for  a 
time  the  tax  of  business,  and  as  did  Izaak  Walton  himself, 
may  find  in  fishing  forgetfulness  of  the  vexations  ar.d  v/orries 
of  life. 

E.  McC. 


Copyright,  1896, 

BV 

Forest  and  Stream  PrBMSHiNG  C  ompany. 


What    It    I 


Five  years  ago,  I  accidentally  heard  that  away 
to  the  north  in  the  wilds  of  Canada,  there  was 
a  new  fishing  territory  opened  up  to  the  a;.gler, 
the  Lake  St.  John  region;  and  I  heard,  too,  for 
the  first  time,  the  name  of  that  great  fish,  tne 
ouananiche. 

I  at  once  made  the  trip,  for  I  was  completely 
worked  up  over  the  glowing  accounts  I  had 
heard;  and  finding  them  to  be  all  truth,  and  no 
fiction,  I  became  a  most  enthusiastic  admirer  of 
the  sport  to  be  had  in  that  country,  and  have 
spent -a  month   or  more   there   each   year  since. 

The  fighting  qualities  of  this  fish  are  so  great 
that  they  pass  understanding,  and  with  five  years 
of  experience  in  angling  for  them,  I  conclude  each 
year  that  I  know  less  about  how  to  hook,  handle 
and  land   them. 

9 


The  Leaping  Ouananiche 

True,  I  have  always  saved  enou^rh  to  satisf)'  in 
point  of  numbers,  but  it  does  hurt  one's  pride  to 
feel  at  the  end  of  each  day's  catch,  that  31^ 
pounds  of  fish  has  frequently  outwitted  225 
pounds  of  man;  and  that  the  man's  superior  in- 
telli<rence  has  availed  him  only  to  the  extent  of 
savincr  less  than  half  of  the  pugnacious  ouananiche 
that   have   become   acquainted   with   his   hook. 

The  word  ouananiche  is  a  new  one  but  recently 
in  use  amongst  anglers,  as  it  represents  a  new 
member  of  the  salmon  family,  found  in  a  new 
section  of  country,  and  is  a  fish  but  little  known, 
even  at  present.  Already  classed  above  the  black 
bass  and  brook  trout  as  a  fighter,  and  rankincr 
second  onh^  to  the  salmon  {Salm.o  salar),  it  is 
destined  to  become  the  most  sought  after  and 
noted  of  our  game  fish,  It  is  peculiar  alone  to 
Lake  St.  John  in  the  Province  of  Quebec  and  its 
tributaries,  and  these  waters  having  been  practi- 
cally opened  to  easy  access  within  a  few  years 
only,  the  existence  of  this  wonderful  fish  is  rap- 
idly attracting  the  attention  of  noted  fishermen. 
How  much  tackle  will  be  broken,  how  many  rods 
smashed,    and    arms    lamed,    will    result     from    the 


10 


The  Leaping  Ouananiche 

inti  )ducti()n     of    the     ouananiche     to     the    an£rlin<»- 
piibiic    cannot    be    told. 

The  outlet  of  Lake  St.  John,  the  Sai^aienay,  has 
always  been  noted  as  a  fine  salmon  river,  for  it 
receives  smaller  fresh  water  rivers  that  afford  fine 
spawning  .i^rounds.  At  some  remote  period,  the 
entire  river  to  the  lake  afforded  easy  ascent  for 
the  spawning  salmon.  Some  upheaval  of  nature 
occurred,  raising  an  impassable  barrier  at  Chicou- 
timi,  a  fall  of  some  60  or  70  feet  in  height,  im- 
prisoning  the  salmon  above.  Thus  prevented  from 
returning  to  salt  water,  they  have  become  land- 
locked salmon,  or  ouananiche,  depreciated  in  size 
only  from  their  original  progenitors. 

The  word  ouananiche  is  from  the  dialect  of  the 
Montagnais  Indians  who  inhabit  the  country  about 
Lake  St.  John.  They  have  always  been  familiar 
wiih  this  fish,  and  understanding  its  derivation, 
have  properly  named  it  ''oiiaiian;'  meaning  salmon, 
and   ''iciu'  the  diminutive — "the  little  salmon." 

Report  has  it  that  one  of  14  pounds  was  taken 
in  the  Little  Dischage  of  the  lake  several  years 
ago,  but  none  approximating  that  weight  have 
been   taken   since.       In   an    ordinary   catch   the    fish 


II 


E-. 
a; 


o 

[14 


< 


1 


The  Leaping  Ouananiche 

will  avera.i^rc  from  3  to  ;,>i  pounds  each,  althoiicrh 
smaller  and  hiro^nv  ones  arc  as  frequently  cau^dit. 
I  have  seen  several  taken  wei^^hin^r  S  to  S^  pounds. 
but  individually.  ;j.^  p.  mds  has  been  the  largest 
I   have  secured. 

The  ouananiche  differs  materially  from  the  land- 
locked salmon  found  in  a  few  of  the  Maine  lakes. 
While  both  are  so-called  land-locked  salmon,  they 
differ  somewhat  in  appearance,  the  former  being 
caught  almost  exclusively  in  the  swiftest  ru.jiing 
rapids  entirely  with  the  lly;  the  latter  in  the  smooth, 
quiet  waters  of  lakes,  and  principally  with  the  spoon. 
Concerning  the  relative  merits  of  the  two  fish,  and 
especially  the  manner  of  catching  them,  there  can 
be  no  comparison  or  controversy,  and  I  will  not 
therefore  go   further   into  the  subject. 

Upon  making  a  close  comparison  of  a  7j/^-pound 
ouananiche  with  an  18-pound  salmon,  side  by  side, 
as  I  had  an  opportunity  to  do  recently.  1  could 
discover  little,  if  any,  difference;  they  are  truly 
congeneric.  The  contour  differs  in  not  even  a 
slight  degree.  The  color,  almost  black  on  the 
back,  shades  to  ji  l^ight  gray  on  the  side,  while  the 
belly   is   silvery   white;   in  all   respects  colored  as  is 


12 


The  Leaping  Ouananiche 

the   salmon.       It    has   a   true    salmon    head,    large» 
round,    black    spots    appear   on    the    gills,    the    St. 
Andrew  crosses  on    the    body  are    plentiful,   it  has 
the    small    fleshy    fin    on    top    anterior   to    the    tail, 
peculiar   to    the    salmon    family.      The    fins,   especi- 
ally the  caudal,  and   the  tail,  are  extremely  large. 
The    scales    are   an    exact   counterpart   of   those   of 
the  salmon,   while  the   flesh    is  h' -d  and   flaky,   al- 
ways pink,  although  varying  in  shade,  and  proper- 
ly cooked,    it   is   fully  equal   to,    it   not   better  than 
that  of  the  salmon.     When  first  caught  and  taken 
from  the  water,  the  back  and  sides  of  the  ouanan- 
iche have  a  most  beautiful  peacock  blue  shade  that 
one  must  stop  and  admire.     This  disappears  within 
a  few   moments,   and   gives    place  to    the    true    sal- 
mon  color  described  above. 

Its  natural  lurking  place  is  in  swift  runnino-  ra- 
pids,  or  the  foam-covered,  whirling,  eddying  pools 
below.  It  seems  almost  impossible  to  find  water 
too  rapid  for  these  fish,  and  I  have  often  taken 
them  on  experimental  casts  from  a  seething,  mist- 
hidden  pool  directly  under  a  ten  or  twelve  foot 
heavy  fall.  The  power  derived  from  its  large 
fins   and    tail,    easily    enables   it    to    move    throuo-h 

13 


The  Leaping  Ouananiche 


and  rest  in  the  most  rapid  water,  and  by  the  same 
power  it  can  jump  fully  twelve  feet  of  sheer  fall, 
as  I  have  frequently  seen  them  do.  Take  into 
consideration  the  rough  water  in  which  the  ouanan- 
iche is  hooked  and  played,  as  also  the  fact  that 
a  seven-ounce  rod  is  holding-  a  ground  and  lofty 
tumbling  fish  against  this  current,  and  some  idea 
can  be  had  of  the  merits  of  this  fishing.  Such 
is  the  ouananiche,  or  land-locked  salmon  of  Lake 
St  John.  Akin  to  the  salt-water  salmon  in  every 
particular,  except  size,  it  is  a  beautiful  fish  to  look 
upon,  the  strongest  and  hardest  fighter  that  I  have 
ever  met  with,  one  that  tests  the  tackle  and  skill 
of  the  angler  to  the  fullest  extent;  in  total,  the 
king  of  fresh-water  fish. 

One  of  the  best  descriptions  of  the  game  qual- 
ities of  the  ouananiche  that  I  have  ever  seen, 
appeared  in  the  Quebec  Chronicle  a  few  years 
ago,  and  it  so  impressed  me  that  I  have  always 
had  it  in  mind  since.  It  is  so  germane  to  the 
subject  in  hand,  that  it  is  worthy  of  repetition, 
and   I  will  reproduce  it  here: 

''In  proportion  to  their  size,  these  ouananiche 
are  the   gamiest    fish   that  swim.      They   are    pecu- 

14 


The  Leaping  Ouananiche 

liar  to  Lake  St.  John  and  its  tributaries;  but  hook 
a  respectable  ouananiche   in    the    boiling  waters  of 
the  Grand  Discharge,  and  you  have  entered  upon 
a  fight  as  different  in  comparison  with   other  fish, 
as  is  that  with  a  dark-colored  trout  hooked  in  the 
heaviest    rapids,    compared    with    the    half-hearted 
struggle    of   a   dainty   fingerling   in    a  crystal    lake. 
In  proportion  to  his  avoirdupois,   he  can  do  more 
tackle   smashing,    pound   for   pound,    than   any   fish 
that   swims.       His   leaps   are   terrific;   he    can   give 
a  black  bass  long  odds,  and  then  show  him  points 
in  high  jumping." 


15 


Wh 


ere 


I  well  remember  examining  a  map  of  the  Prov- 
ince of  Quebec  to  find  Lake  St.  John,  and  how 
to  get  there.  Located  as  it  is,  two  hundred  miles 
due  north  of  the  city  of  Quebec,  and  the  map 
showing  but  little  settlement,  and  giving  only  an 
imperfect  idea  of  what  is  beyond,  I  felt  as  though 
I  was  going  to  leave  the  confines  of  civilization 
far   behind. 

An  examination  to-day  of  tile  latest  map  of  Ca- 
nada, will  convey  merely  an  idea  of  the  vastness 
of  the  primeval,  unsettled  forest  without  any  detail. 
Especially  north  of  Lake  St.  John  is  this  true; 
a  few  tracings  showing  only  the  rivers  will  in^ 
dicate  all  —  and  how  little  —  known  of  the  terri- 
tory. But  little  effort  is  being  made  by  the  Gov- 
ernment  to   explore    and    map    it,   and   I    firmly  be- 


19 


The  Leaping  Ouananiche 

lleve    that    American    sportsmen    will    discover   the 
topography  first,  in  their  desire  to  find  new  hunt- 
ing and  fishing  grounds.     Lake  St.  John  is  by  far 
the  largest  body  of  water  to  be  found  for  several ' 
hundred    miles    north    of   the    St.    Lawrence    River. 
Bearing  the   Indian   name   Pikouagami,   this   inland 
sea  measuring  fully  30  miles  across   in    any   direc- 
tion, lies  deep   in   the  midst  of  the  old  Laurentian 
Mountains,  a  marvel  of  beauty  to  the  artist,  a  par-' 
adise   to    the    angler.       Tributary   to   the   lake -are 
some  eighteen  rivers,  large  and  small,  flowing  from^ 
all   points   of   the  compass.      The   most   noted   are 
the     Ashuapmouchouan    from    the    northwest,    the- 
Mistassini  from  the  north,  the  Peribonca  from  the 
northeast/  the     Metabetchouari    and    Ouiatchouan 
from  the  south,  the  Ouiatchouaniche  and   Iroquois- 
from  the  west.      The  three  first  named  rivers  are 
respectively  300,  350  and  400  miles  in  length,  very 
deep,   and   will    average    from   one   and   a   half   to 
two  miles  wide  at  their  mouth. 

For  all  this  great  inrush  of  water,  but  one  outlet 
is  provided  by  nature,  the  Saguenay  River,  or  as 
it  is  termed  until  it  reaches  tide  water,  the  Grand 

Discharge.     Taking  its  course  through  a  mountain 

20 


The  Leaping  Ouananiche 

chasm  filled  with  rocks,  rapids  and  falls,  this 
great  body  of  water  hurls  itself  against  and  over 
the  opposing  barriers  with  mighty  strength,  boil- 
ing, surging  and  leaping  with  an  indescribable 
roar  and  confusion,  until  with  its  final  plunge  at 
Chicoutimi,  as  the  dark,  mysterious  Saguenay,  it 
quietly  seeks  the  sea. 

The  south  shore  of  Lake  St.  John,  cleared  back 
for  a  distance  of  about  three  miles,  is  settled  to 
some  extent;  back  of  this,  two-thirds  of  the  dis- 
tance to  Quebec,  is  an  unbroken  forest.  From 
the  lake  north  to  St.  James  Bay,  it  is  absolutely 
unsettled  with  the  exception  of  a  few  Hudson  Bay 
Company  posts  and  depots  for  supplies.  Primeval 
forest,  a  network  of  rivers  and  lakes!  Who  can 
fully  gauge  the  success  that  awaits  the  hunter  or 
fisherman  who  penetrates  it?  Properly,  the  abid- 
ing place  of  le  ouananiche,  the  Lake  St.  John 
country  offers  as  well  unequalled  trout  fishing 
and  splendid  hunting  for  large  and  small  game. 
Connected  now  with  Quebec  by  the  Quebec  and 
Lake  St.  John  Railroad,  the  trip  is  made  in  eight 
hours,  through  a  wild,  wooded  mountain  country, 
the  picturesqueness  of  which    relieves   the   journey 

21 


The  Leaping  Ouananiche 

from  monotony  and  fatigue.  On  arrival  is  found 
the  Hotel  Roberval,  perfect  in  all  respects,  every 
facility  being  offered  the  sportsman  for  his  suc- 
cess and  every  effort  put  forth  for  the  comfort 
of  all.  Within  twenty-four  hours  ride  of  New  York, 
these  Canadian  Adirondacks  are  as  accessible  and 
convenient  in  all  ways  as  are  the  Adirondacks  of 
New  York  State. 

Ouananiche  fishing  is  found  only  in  Lake  St. 
John,  the  various  rivers  flowing  into  it,  and  the 
Grand  Discharge.  None  of  the  surrounding  lakes, 
unless  in  direct  connection  with  the  rivers,  con- 
tain them.  At  the  first  glance  this  is  apparently 
a  small  and  circumscribed  territory.  How  quickly, 
however,  will  the  first  visit  dispel  that  idea;  the 
magnitude  of  the  lake,  the  length  and  breadth  of 
the  rivers,  will  prove  that  there  is  ample  room 
for   the   multitude   of   fishermen   who  may  visit  it. 

All  this  territory,   beginning  some  lo  or  12  miles 

south  of  the  lake,  including  12  miles  of  the  Grand 

Discharge,   and  extending   north  to    the   watershed 

of  the   great   rivers   mentioned,    embracing   all   the 

territory  drained  by  them,   in   extent  over   100,000 

square  miles,  is  owned  by,  or  leased  to,   Mr.  H,  J. 

22 


The  Leaping  Ouananiche 

Beemer  of  Montreal.     Upon  the  completion  of  the 
railroad  from  Quebec,  Mr.  Beemer,  recognizing  the 
value    of    the    country    to    sportsmen,    erected    the 
magnificent  Hotel  Roberval,  and   threw  open  with- 
out   charge    this    immense     preserve    to    patrons    of 
the    house.      Three   years    later,   the    Island    House 
at  the  Grand  Discharge   was   built   under  the   same 
management,   for   the   convenience  of   fishermen  at 
that    point.       A    daily    communication    across    the 
lake,  between   the  two   hotels,  is  maintained  by  the 
large  sidewheel   steamer  "  Mistassini." 
•    Naturally    the    most    convenient    place    to    visit, 
and   affording  at   all   seasons  good   average  fishing, 
the  Discharge  attracts  the   greater  number  of  vis- 
itors,   but    the    fishing    pools    are    numberless,    and 
there    is    ample    room    for    all.       The    supply    of 
ouananiche    is    in    reality    inexhaustible,    and    it    is 
certain   that   this   and   the  succeeding  generation  of 
inglers   will    fail    to    deplete    them.       For   trips    up 
any   of  the   rivers,   the  start   is    usually    made  from 
the    vicinity    of    the    Roberval,    guides   and    canoes 
being  engaged   there.       Provisions,    tents,   blankets, 
camp  kits — in   fact,   everything    needed   for   a  com- 
fortable camp-^are  furnished  at  the  hotel. 

23 


o 

Ed 

a- 
a? 
O 

(—1 


The  Leaping  Ouananiche 

To  those  intending  to  visit  Lake  St.  John,  I 
would  advise  that  nothing  except  necessary  cloth- 
ing and  tackle  should  be  taken,  and  nothing  dif- 
ferent in  clothing  from  that  used  in  the  New  York 
Adirondacks.  Although  much  further  north  than 
the  Adirondacks,  the  weather  is  quite  warm,  with 
occasional  very  hot  days,  the  nights  only  proving 
cold.  The  country  is  so  vast,  the  sport  both  in 
hunting  and  fishing  so  varied,  the  facilities  for 
reaching  it  so  good,  the  conveniences  for  comfort 
so  complete,  that  it  seems  impossible  for  one  to 
make  a  trip  there  and   return  dissatisfied. 

How  different  is  all  this  from  the  Adirondack 
region  of  New  York,  which  formerly  offered  plenty 
of  fishing  and  hunting;  and  from  its  nearby  loca- 
tion, so  easy  of  access,  has  been,  and  is  the  Mecca 
of  thousands  of  sportsmen.  The  relentless  lumber- 
-man, a  railroad  dividing  this  region  in  twain, 
other  connecting  roads  under  way,  have  all  con- 
spired to  bring  about  the  early  clearing  of  the 
forest,  and  the  rapid  disappearance  of  the  deer 
and  trout,  formerly  so  abundant.  Many  preserves 
have  been  taken  up  by  clubs  for  the  use  of  their 
members    only,    thus    reducing   a    territory    already 

2-4 


The  Leaping  Ouananlche 

circumscribed,  open  to  other  seekers  for  sport,  to 
small  and  confined  sections  that  are  fairly  high- 
ways of  travel,  and  overrun.  Others  recognize 
these  facts  as  well  as  I,  and  that  the  end  must 
come— is  near  at  hand.  Nothing  therefore  is  left 
but  to  change  one's  grounds.  The  Lake  St.  John 
country  offers  every  inducement;  a  new  country, 
and  a  new  fish,  plenty  of  trout  and  game,  will 
reward  the  sportsman  so  amply,  that  he  will  ex- 
claim, as  did   I,   ''Eureka!" 


35 


When 

The  question  as  to  the  proper  time  to  go  to 
Lake  St.  John  for  ouananiche  is  often  asked  me. 
Fortunately,  the  season  is  of  such  duration,  and 
the  fishing  ahvays  so  good,  that  it  will  suit  the  va- 
cation time  of  almost  all. 

The  season  for  ouananiche  fishing  is  at  any  time 
from  the  breaking  up  of  the  ice  in  the  spring, 
until  the  close  of  the  open  season.  The  fishing 
is  always  there,  good  at  all  times  during  the  time 
mentioned,  but  must  be  sought  after  in  different 
waters  as  the   season   advances. 

The  ice  breaks  up  in  Lake  St.  John  anywhere 
from  May  15th  to  June  ist,  generally  about  May 
20th.     The   Hotel   Roberval  opens  about  June   ist, 

and   closes    September    15th,    thus    accommodating 

29 


The  Leaping  Ouanaiiiche 


anglers  at  all  times.  BLtween  these  dates  is  the 
proper  time  for  ouananiche ;  before  June  ist  it  is 
too  early  and  cold.  With  September  15th  begins 
the  close  season,  extendin^r  to  December  ist.  F"rom 
the  breaking  up  of  the  ice  until  about  June  loth 
to  15th,  the  fishing  is  entirely  in  the  bays  at  the 
mouth  of  the  smaller  rivers  emptying  into  the  lake, 
notably  the  Ouiatchouan,  Ouiatchouaniche,  and 
Metabetchouan.  From  June  15th  to  July  ist  to 
loth  the  fishing  is  confined  to  the  Grand  Dis- 
charge. 

Following  this,  the  July,  August  and  September 
fishing  is  to  be  had  at  best  in  the  larger  rivers, 
the  Ashouapmouchouan,  Mistassini,  and  Peribonca. 
As  these  latter  months  advance,  the  ouananiche 
must  be  followed  on  their  course  up  these  rivers 
towards  the  spawning  beds. 

Fair  fishing  can  be  had  In  the  Discharge  at 
all  times,  but  a  good  angler  appreciates  fishing 
best,  when  success  is  attended  by  a  fair  amount 
of  work  to  attain  it.  Therefore  will  he  seek  the 
more  distant  pools  of  the  rivers  last  mentioned, 
and  always  return  satisfied  with  his  trip,  the  un- 
equalled   sport   he    has   had,    and    his   catch.     It   is 

30 


The  Leaping  Ouananiche 

no  cxai^rgeration  to  say  that  good  catches  can  al- 
ways be  had.     True,   there  are  days  when, 

"Wind   from   the  east, 
The  fish   bite   least," 

prevail,  the  elements  conspire  to  prevent,  or  the 
fish  themselves  are  not  running.  However,  a  week 
or  ten  days  spent  at  the  proper  place  at  the 
proper  times  mentioned,  will  insure  a  satisfactory 
catch. 

In  five  years'  experience  I  have  heard  but  one 
opinion  in  regard  to  catching  this  land-locked  sal- 
mon, and  that  is  that  it  far  surpasses  fishing  for 
any  other  fiesh-water  fish. 

There  have  been  a  very  few  who  visited  Lake 
St.  John  with  only  one  or  two  days  in  which  to 
fish,  and  being  limited  in  time,  had  necessarily  to 
go  to  the  Grand  Discharge,  although  either  too 
late  in  the  season  for  that  point,  or  had  a  day 
when  the  fishing  was  not  at  its  best,  entailing  poor 
catches,  or  little  sport.  Ouananiche,  like  noi-t  or 
bass,  will  at  times  fight  poorly,  but  onl^  al  limes. 
To-day  deadened  and  stupefied  by  the  conditions 
of  the  water  and  elements,  to-morrow  very  much 
alive  and  fighting  as  they  alone  can  fight. 

31 


The  Leaping  Ouananichc 


A  hurried  trip  lo  Lake  St.  John  for  fishiiiLr  is 
not  to  be  advised.  At  least  two  weeks  should  be 
taken,  which,  excludini;  the  time  spent  on  the  jour- 
ney, will  leave  at  least  a  week  or  ten  days—  ef- 
ficient to  visit  any  point  where  the  best  fishing 
may  prevail. 

P\3r  fishinor  the  Grand  Discharire,  the  fisher- 
man  makes  his  headquarters  at  the  Island  House, 
makin<r  daily  canoe  trips  to  the  various  pools;  or, 
if  preferred,  a  campin^^  trip  can  be  made  as  far 
down  a*^  Isle  Maleine.  It  is  beyond  the  power 
of  description  to  convey  an  idea  of  the  i^randeur, 
excitement  and  thrillin<r  experiences  which  attend 
canoe  fishing  in  the  Dischar^re.  Seemingly  impas- 
sable rapids  are  descended,  the  skill  of  the  Ca- 
nadian, or  Indian  canoemen  guiding  the  canoe 
easily  between  and  around  rocks,  through  swift 
currents  and  heaving  pools,  novv  crossing  rapids 
close  above  a  fall  or  the  boiling  waters  below, 
until  one  enters  fully  into  the  excitement,  all  fear 
allayed. 

In  undertaking  a  •  camping  trip  up  the  larger 
rivers,    the    start   can   be   made   by    canoe    from   the 

hotel,    or   time   can   be    saved    by    taking    the    small 

32 


The  Leaping  Ouananlche 


steamer  ''Undine."  In  the  ev^ent  of  heavy  winds, 
this  would  be  absolutely  necessary,  as  the  lake  is 
then  impassable  for  canoes.  By  taking  the  steamer, 
l^utting-  the  canoes,  provisions,  etc.,  aboard  and 
ascending  the  Peribonca  or  Mistassini  as  far  as 
navigation  is  possible,  the  greater  part  of  a  day 
can  be  saved.  A  like  saving  can  be  effected  in 
a  trip  up  the  Ashouapmouchouan,  by  carting  canoes 
and  baggage  over  a  fair  road  around  the  head 
of  the  lake  to  Bear  Falls  on  the  river,  where  the 
fishing  commences  and  the  canoe  trip  begins. 

A  trip  that  has  been  but  seldom  taken  and  one 
offering  the  greatest  possibilities  for  successful  fish- 
ing, is  to  leave  the  river  some  40  miles  above 
Lake  St.  John,  thence  to  go  by  river  and  portao-e 
to  Lake  a-Jim,  where  trout  and  ouananiche  abound. 
Thence  again  through  various  streams,  ponds''  and 
portage  to  the  Mistassini,  where  the  famous  fish- 
ing pools  of  the  Fifth  Falls  can  be  fished  and  the 
return  made  down  that  river.  At  least  two  weeks 
are  required  to  make  this  trip. 

The  Fifth  Falls  of  the  Mistassini,  from  their  for- 
mation,  afford   one   of   the    finest   ouananiche   pools 

in   the  whole  territorv.      The  falls  are  fullv   ^o  feet 

33 


i 
) 


The  Leaping  Ouananiche 


i 
) 


in  height,  and  unless  the  water  is  of  good  height, 
the  fish  cannot  ascend  them ;  as  a  consequence, 
the  pool  below  nearly  always  affords  fine  fishing. 
The  falls  are  reached  by  canoe  in  a  day  and  a 
half  from  the  hotel.  The  Peribonca  is  usually  as- 
cended as  far  as  Lake  Tshotagama,  distant  about 
50  miles  from  the  Roberval.  On  this  trip  there 
are  eleven  falls,  around  each  of  which  a  portage 
must  be  made,  two  days'  steady  canoeing  being 
necessary  to  reach  the  lake.  Here  are  found 
ouananiche  of  large  size  and  plentiful,  a  fine  camp- 
ing place  and  most   magnificent   mountain  scenery. 

I  have  neglected  to  state  that  all  trips  are  made 
by  means  of  birch  bark  canoes.  These  are  built 
by  the  Indians  and  are  marvels  of  beauty,  strength 
and  lightness.  More  comfortable  by  far  than  a 
boat,  they  are  absolutely  safe.  In  fact,  many 
waters  now  accessible  through  their  medium,  could 
not  be  reached  in  a  small  boat  of  any  other  de- 
scription. 

Other  trips  without  number  can  be  made,  but 
I  have  noted  only  those  that  I  have  found  to  be 
the  easiest  and  where  at  the  proper  time  satisfac- 
tory success  can   be  had, 

34 


The  Leaping  Ouananiche 

It  would  take  a  long  chapter  to  describe  even 
a  few  of  the  many  trips  possible  for  trout  and 
game,  and  for  that  reason  I  have  mentioned  in 
detail  only  those  that  should  properly  be  made 
for  the  best  of  ouananiche  fishing.  Mr.  Patterson, 
who  has  charge  of  the  guides  at  the  Roberval 
and  who  for  many  years  was  in  the  Hudson  Bay 
Company's  employ  at  Lake  St.  John,  will  suggest 
and  describe  numberless  places  to  visit  for  suc-^ 
cessful  hunting  or  fishing  of  any  kind.  In  the 
past  his  business  has  caused  him  to  make  trips, 
in  all  directions,  and  almost  every  foot  of  the  ter- 
ritory is  perfectly  familiar  to  him.  One  has  but 
to  suggest  the  kind  of  sport  wanted  and  the 
length  of  time  to  be  spent,  and  he  will  plan  the 
trips  and   arrange   all   details. 

Owing  to  this  arrangement,  those  visiting  Lake 
St.  John  for  the  first  time  can  feel  assured  that 
they  will  know  at  once  the  best  places  to  go  for 
good   sport   and   how  to   reach  them. 


35 


Ouananiche  and  Salmon  Akin 


It  has  come  to  my  knowledge  recently,  both 
through  letters  received,  and  articles  published  in 
various  sporting  papers,  that  some  anglers  differ 
as  to  the  genealogy  and  game  qualities  of  the 
ouananiche.     This   I   cannot  understand. 

If  an  angler,  one  who  from  experience  can  be 
properly  classed  as  such,  has  spent  a  proper  length 
of  time  fishing  for  this  land-locked  salmon,  has 
given  time  enough  to  test  the  fishing  in  all  its 
phases,  cannot  give  this  great  fish  its  proper  clas- 
sification as  being  the  king  of  game  fish,  then  he 
is  not  worthy  of  the  name  of  angler,  and  should 
study  the  rudiments  of  the  art. 

That  those  who  have  caught  the  salmon  {Salmo 
salar)  can  fish  for  ouananiche,  and  then  state  that 
there   is   no    comparison,    similarity,    or   relationship 


The  Leaping  Ouananiche 


existing  between  the  two,  leads  me  to  believe  that 
either  an  attempt  at  jest  or  ridicule  is  aimed  at, 
or  bigoted  prejudice  in  favor  of  salmon  fishing  is 
so  deeply  rooted  that  excellence  in  other  fishing 
cannot  be  appreciated. 

I  have  stated  in  preceding  chapters  what  my 
observation  deduced  from  practical  experience  in 
ouananiche  fishing,  running  through  a  number  of 
years,  has  taught  me,  but  fearing  that  an  individual 
opinion  may  not  have  the  proper  weight,  I  shall 
quote    from    able   authorities    on    fishing. 

Referring  to  that  noted  authority,  **The  Fisheries 
of  the  United  States,"  page  470,  we  find  on  the 
subject  of  ouananiche  or  land-locked  salmon  the 
following:  ''The  habits  of  successive  generations 
become  hereditary  traits,  and  the  differences  in  their 
life-histories  seem  to  justify  the  claim  of  the  land- 
locked to  be  regarded  as  a  variety  of  Salmo  salar. 
*  *  *  It  is  to  be  designated  as  Salmo  salar,  variety 
sebago.  Although  both  originated  in  the  same 
primitive  stock,  it  is  not  probable  that  one  changes 
to  the  other — except  after  many  generations,  under 
the  influence  of  forced  changes  in  their  environ- 
ments." 


' 


\ 


\' 


' 


H 


ow 


1 


i' 


''  Felt  the  loose  line  jerk  and  tighten ; 
As  he  drew  it  in,   it  tugged  so 
That  the  birch  bark  canoe  stood  endwise." 

Aptly  do  the  words  of  Hiawatha  portray,  in 
part,  what   I   wish  to  describe. 

"How!"  A  small  word  indeed,  but  what  a 
task  its  explanation  sets  before  me  to  perform. 
Should  I  begin  by  confessing  that  I  do  not  know 
how  to  catch  ouananiche  myself,  I  believe  that 
I  would  approximate  the  truth.  The  more  time 
one  spends  in  this  fishing,  and  the  more  one 
studies  the  fish,  the  sooner  one's  belief  is  strength- 
ened that  the  knowledge  which  should  follow  prac- 
tice grows  less  instead  of  greater.  With  experi- 
ence in  catching  ouananiche,  one  formulates  cer- 
tain   ideas    as    to    the    proper   way   to    strike    them, 

39 


The  Leaping  Ouananiche 


to  play  them,  and  to  land  then.  Suddenly  a 
change  comes  over  the  spirit  of  the  fish,  and  the 
supposed  proper  methods  an'  far  better  to  honor 
in  the  breach  rather  than  in  the  observance.  These 
changes  are  radical,  and  oft-occurring;  applying  as 
well  to  just  where  to  find  them  as  to  their  action 
when  striking  and  when  hooked. 

I  have  before  mentioned  that  the  ouananiche 
are  great  fighters,  surpassing  even  the  trout  and 
black  bass  in  this  particular;  and  it  would  almost 
seem  as  though  there  was  method  in  their  fight, 
they  vary  it  in  quality  but  not  in  quantity. 

To-day  they  are  to  be  caught  only  in  the  white, 
boiling  water  just  under  a  fall,  to-morrow  in  the 
more  quiet  water  beyond ;  to-day  they  fight  when 
hooked,  by  constantly  leaping  from  the  water,  to- 
morrow by  running  and  sulking  deep  down ;  now 
they  make  prodigious  jumps  for  a  passing  darning- 
needle,  or  some  other  member  of  the  mouche 
family,  and  are  not  to  be  tempted  by  any  of  our 
flies.  Again  they  rise  quickly  to  any  color  or 
kind  of  cast  that  we  may  give  them. 

When  an   ouananiche  is  hooked,   he   is  not   even 

half  caught;  as  my  guides  would  say,  ''Brcbis  comp- 

40 


A 


The  Leaping  Ouananiche 

tdes,  le  loup  les  mangel  truly  one  should  not  count 
their  chickens  before  they  are  hatched,  nor  their 
ouananiche  before  they  are  netted. 

The  ouananiche  has  one  mortal  enemy  in  the 
pickerel  {brocket),  with  which  Lake  St.  John 
abounds,  and  which  grow  to  enormous  size.  I 
have  frequently  caught  ouananiche  bearing  large 
scars,  both  recent  and  old,  showing  narrow  escapes 
from  the  enemy.  Perhaps  feeling  the  wound  when 
hooked,  and  attributing  it  to  their  natural  enemy, 
may  have  something  to  do  with  causing  them  to 
fight  as  they  will.  In  any  event,  the  fighting  they 
do  is  simply  tremendous. 

In  rough  water  the  ouananiche  is  rarely  seen 
when  he  takes  the  fly,  the  choppy  waves  conceal- 
ing his  strike.  The  first  intimation  will  be  to  see 
it  jump  from  the  water  in  the  vicinity  of  the  cast, 
and  a  severe  tightening  strain  on  the  line.  If 
this  occurs  when  the  cast  is  being  drawn  in  and 
the  rod  elevated  back,  something  w^ill  break  unless 
it  is  possible  for  the  tip  to  be  rapidly  given.  If 
in  smooth  water,  th^  strike  can  be  seen,  and  the 
tip  given   at  once. 

Strike  the  fish   firmly,  but  without  a  sharp  jerk, 

41 


The  Leaping  Ouananiche 


as  they  usually  hook  only  In  the  lip,  lightly,  and 
the  fly  is  easily  torn  out.  Follow  at  once  by  draw- 
ing quickly  an  absolutely  tight  line,  never  relax, 
even  an  inch.  Stop  the  reel,  draw  out  between 
the  reel  and  first  ring  from  three  to  four  feet  of 
line  taut  in  the  left  hand.  Give  the  fish  the  butt 
of  the  rod  as  much  as  possible,  hold  it  absolutely 
tight  without  giving  line  except  when  it  leaps; 
then  slightly  drop  the  tip  and  follow  the  leap  with 
the  necessary  line  from  that  held  in  the  left  hand. 
Being  held  absolutely  in  check  without  slack,  the 
fish  runs  only  within  a  short  radius,  pulling  usu- 
ally with  all  its  strength ;  this  may  result  in  laming 
the  wrist,  but  more  fish  are  saved.  If  preferred, 
the  reel  can  be  used  and  the  ouananiche  allowed 
to  run,  but  they  turn  and  return  so  quickly  that 
the  slack  can  not  easily  be  recovered ;  result,  that 
another  run  with  the  slack  tightens  the  line  with 
a  jerk,  the  hook  is  torn  out  or  broken,  and  the 
fish  gone.  Individually,  I  find  an  automatic  reel 
preferable,  as  it  will  take  the  slack  as  rapidly  as 
given,  and  to  it  I  attribute  the  saving  of  many 
fish.  Never  hurry  the  fish,  or  attempt  to  lead  it 
to    the    net    until    satisfied    that    it    is    thoroughly 


I 


42 


The  Leaping  Ouananiche 


I 


tired  out,  and  do  not  relax  the  strain,  or  watch- 
fulness, until  safely  netted.  An  ouananiche  of 
about  3  pounds  weight  will  require  fully  fifteen 
to  twenty  minutes  or  more,  to  kill  it,  and  it  will 
fight  hard  every  moment. 

Now  it  will  leap  from  the  water  anywhere  from 
two  or  three  to  a  dozen  times,  rising  fully  three 
or  four  feel,  from  the  surface,  returning  to  the 
water  only  to  make  an  immediate  wild  rush  to- 
ward the  bottom..  If  near  a  fall,  it  will  make 
many  attempts  to  rush  under  the  falling  water,  or 
in  the  rough .  part,  of  the  rapids,  there  to  sulk, 
pull,  and  often  shake  violently  to  release  the  hook. 
Then  perhaps,  a  rush  toward  the  fisherman,  a  quick 
turn  and  deep  down  again,  a  moment's  rest  and 
then  a  violent  race  to  and  fro,  as  far  as  the  line 
will  permit.  The  jumps  are  quick,  and  occur  when 
least  expected  often  following  one  another  in  quick 
succession.  In  fact,  the  fish  are  never  at  rest,  but 
change  their  tactics  every  moment :  each  fish  fights 
differently,  the  method  pursued  in  catching  one 
will  scarcely  apply  to  the  next.  The  hand  and 
mind  must  act  in  unison  quickly,  and  both  will 
bQ  thoroughly  occupied.     There  are  &o  many  *'//>'' 

43 


The  Leaping  Ouananiche 

that  It  is  easy  to  understand  how  questionable  i.s 
the  savincr  of  the  fish  after  being  hooked.  If  well 
hooked,  if  the  hook  shall  tear  out,  or  if  the  hook, 
leader,  line  or  rod  shall  not  break.  Be  prepared 
to  lose,  as  a  rule,  more  fish  than  you  save;  that 
is  the  common  experience. 

in  regard  to  the  selection  of  tackle,  the  greatest 
care  must  be  used.  I  find  that  an  "  E "  silk  line 
with  a  6-foot  leader  is  best,  and  am  always  sure 
that  my  leaders  and  flies  are  new,  well  made,  and 
will  stand  a  good  prior  test.  An  "E"  line  being 
heavy,  is  less  liable  to  break,  and  cannot  be  cut 
by  the  rocks  when  drawn  across  them,  as  fre- 
quently happens  in  playing  a  fish.  A  short  leader 
is  necessary  to  prevent  its  being  tangled  in  the 
rough  water  of  the  rapids,  or  from  the  violent  play 
of  the  fish. 

All  anglers  have  their  favorite  rods,  either  split 
bamboo,  lancewood,  or  greenheart.  All  are  good 
— the  lighter  and  more  springy  they  are,  the 
better.  Rods  from  6^  to  8  ounces  in  weight  are 
the  best,  although  lighter  and  even  much  heavier 
ones  are  used.  The  practical  point  is  to  have 
plenty  of   them,  at  least  two  or  three,  with  several 

44 


The  Leaping  Ouananichc 


extra  tips.  Broken  rods,  and  tips  especially,  are 
a  frequently  occurring  contingency  of  ouananiche 
fishing. 

Eight  or  ten  varieties  form  an  ample  variety  of 
flies,  and  most  of  them  should  be  tied  on  No.  4 
hooks.  The  Jock  Scott,  Silver  Doctor,  Brown 
Hackk,  Cow  Dung,  Seth  Green,  Lord  Baltimore, 
Parmacheene  Belle,  and  Scarlet  Ibis,  I  have  al- 
ways found  to  give  me  sufficient  variety,  and  I 
have  rarely  used  anything  else.  A  good  supply 
should  be  taken,  since  those  not  broken  soon  be- 
come worn  and  battered  from  violent  usage,  are 
useless  and  need  to  be  frequently  renewed.  I  find, 
as  a  rule,  that  the  most  successful  cast  is  Cow 
Dung  or  Brown  Hackle  for  trailer,  and  a  Jock 
Scott  or  Silver  Doctor  for  dropper.  Use  two  flies 
only,  and  fasten  the  dropper  at  the  last  knot  on 
the  leader  next  to  the  line.  By  doing  this,  it  will 
skip  the  surface  better,  and  will  take  most  of  the 
fish,  as  its  action  seems  tc  attract  them  more. 

To  give  advice  just  how  to  fish  for  ouananiche, 
and  to  make  fishing  successful,  is  an  utter  impos- 
sibility; general  Information  only  can  be  given.  It 
is   practically   necessary   to   know   what   to  take  in 


45 


The  Leapinr^  Ouananiche 

the  way  of  clothing,  tackle,  etc.,  as  one  Is  too  far 
removed  from  a  base  of  supplies  to  get  anything 
that  may  be  needed.  It  is  necessary  also  to  know 
what  one  has  to  combat  with  in  catching  the 
ouananiche,  wliat  to  use,  and  in  a  general  way  how 
to  use  it.  Such  knowledge  to  the  angler  fishing 
these  waters  for  the  first  time,  will  save  him  much 
vexation,  a  quantity  of  broken  tackle,  and  per- 
chance some  fish.  Beyond  this,  his  own  acquired 
experience  will  be  his  guide.  Experience  alone 
can  prove  his  teacher.  As  the  French  say,  ''A 
force  de  forger  on  dcvient  forgeroif — practice  alone 
makes  perfect.  Previous  fishing  experience  is  a 
great  aid,  but  the  ouananiche  is  so  totally  dif- 
ferent from  other  fish  that  it  is  like  learning  a 
new  art  to  successfully  angle  for  and  land  it. 

When  fishing  the  pools  in  the  rivers,  it  is  gen- 
erally better,  and  more  convenient,  to  fish  from 
the  rocks,  but  in  the  Grand  Discharge  one  can 
more  readily  reach  the  pools  from  a  canoe. 

Imagine  yourself  in  the  midst  of  a  boiling  rapid, 
your  canoe  dancing  and  bounding  on  the  troubled 
waters.  You  make  a  cast,  and  you  have  hooked 
an  ouananiche,  or  perhaps  two,  as  sometimes  hap- 

46. 


The  Leaping  Ouananichc 

pens.  Here  you  have  excitement  beyond  compare. 
Imagine  tlie  skill  necessary  to  handle  and  save 
them ;  your  varied  emotions ;  your  surroundings 
— all — and  then  one  fully  appreciates  that  he  is 
engaged  in  the  finest  fishing  known.  No  fitting 
eulogy  can  be  given  such  fishing.  Only  those 
who  have  been  fortunate  enough  to  enjoy  it  can 
understand  and  appreciate. 

But  one  proviso  is  to  be  made  to  insure  satis- 
factory success  in  ouananiche  fishing,  and  that  is 
to  take  sufficient  time  to  fairly  test  them  in  the 
right  v^aters  at  the  right  times  mentioned. 


1 


4^ 


Other  Sport   to  be    Had 


Variety  is  indeed  a  spice  that  adds  materially 
to  any  kind  of  a  trip  undertaken  for  sport.  No 
matter  how  good  the  fishing  or  hunting  for  any 
particular  fish  or  game  may  be,  ii  cilier  kinds  can 
be  obtained  in  the  same  neighbu--' .,' d,  one  tires 
of  constantly  working  to  secure  one,  nnd  will  seek 
the  other  also. 

Usually  when  trips  are  made,  with  special  kinds 
of  fishing  or  hunting  in  view,  but  little  else  than 
that  sought  can  be  obtained,  and  from  force  of 
circumstances  one  must  be  content,  whether  the 
sport  be  good  or  bad. 

I  know  of  no  one  section  of  country  that  af- 
fords such  a  great  variety  of  fish  and  game  as  does 
the  Lake  St.  John  territory;  and  that  too,  in  al- 
most any  part  that  may  be  visited.     All  the  smaller 

51 


The  Leaping  Ouananiche 


I 


streams  and  kkes  afford  the  very  finest  trout  fish- 
ing. All  the  larger  lakes  and  rivers  contain  pick- 
erel and  pike  {dord).  Moose  are  still  quite  numer- 
ous, and  caribou  very  frequently  seen.  Black  bear 
are  met  with  on  all  sides.  Of  the  smaller  game, 
ducks  of  all  kinds,  and  spruce  partridge  are  found 
in  greater  numbers  than  I  have  ever  seen  else- 
where. Mink,  martin,  otter  and  muskrat  are  quite 
plentiful,   and  beaver  occur  in  limited  numbers. 

There  is  such  a  network  of  rivers,  streams  and 
lakes  in  this  region  that  it  is  doubtful  if  one  can 
go  over  half  a  mile  in  any  direction  without  en- 
countering one  or  the  other.  Of  this  vast  number, 
comparatively  few  have  been  fished,  and  those  but 
little,  so  that  one  is  given  the  choice  of  following 
beaten  trails,  or  seeking  new  w^aters.  In  either 
event,  the  success  will  prove  more  than  satisfying. 
Apart  from  that  by  the  native  Indians,  who  trap 
almost  entirely,  but  little  hunting  has  been  done 
here ;  as  a  consequence  the  game  is  very  plentiful, 
and  is  easily  reached.  As  the  season  for  moose 
and  caribou  opens  September  ist,  and  ouananiche 
fishing   closes    September    15th,    and    trout    fishing 

October  1st,  September  is  an  ideal   month  to  visit 

52 


The  Leaping  Ouananiche 

Lake  St.  John,  as  both  fishing  and  hunting  are 
open  at  the  same  time.  Then,  too,  the  bite  noir 
of  the  woods,  the  black  flies,  mosquitoes  and 
punkies,  are  gone.  Of  the  magnificent  trout  fish- 
intr  to  be  found  in  these  Canadian  Adirondacks, 
enough  cannot  be  said,  nor  can  justice  be  done  it. 
No  "fish  stories"  can  be  told  of  this  country,  as 
the  possibilities  are  unlimited.  According  to  the 
waters  you  seek,  do  you  get  large  fish  or  small, 
as  the  case  may  be. 

Last  season  two  of  us  took  in  four  hours  from 
Lac  de  Belie  Riviere,  two  hundred  and  twenty- 
five  trout,  eleven  weighing  3^  to  4^  pounds,  and 
the  balance  from  Y^  to  2%  pounds.  This  year  in 
the  same  waters,  with  stormy  weather,  we  took 
exactly  the  same  number  in  eleven  hours,  weigh- 
ing Y  ^^  ^V^  pounds.  Another  catch  shown, 
caught  in  one  pool  in  an  hour,  comprised  twenty- 
ei^^ht.  wei^Wiine  QO  pounds.  These  catches  men- 
tioned  are  not  isolated  cases,  but  such  as  any  one 
can  make  in  the  same,  or  many  other  places.  I 
refer  to  brook  trout  {S.  fontinalis)  only,  as  lake, 
or  salmon  trout,  are  almost  unknown  in  these  waters. 

Fishing  with  the  fly  only  is  practiced,  and  the  hun- 

53 


c 
as 

o 

K 
u 

<; 

c 

o 

PS 

o 


The  Leaping  Ouananiche 


gry  fish  will  take  ahnost  any  lure,  plain  or  iraudy 
The  same  flies  and  tackle,  used  in  ouananiche 
fishin<r,  are  suitable  for  trout.  In  fact,  Hies  with 
No.  4  hooks  are  best,  as  they  frequently  fail  to 
hook  small  fish  that  are  not  wanted,  and  would 
be  thrown  back.  Individual  fish  have  frequently 
been  taken,  weighing  from  six  to  ten  pounds,  and 
many  more  will  be  tempted  from  the  deep,  black 
waters  in  the  future,  as  neither  this  nor  the  com- 
ing (feneration  will  see  the  fishing  impaired.  Dis- 
tant  trips  must  be  made  for  trout  as  well  as  ouanan- 
iche, although  I  have  frequently  caught  150  or 
more  .small  trout  on  the  Ouiatchouaniche,  eight  or 
nine   miles   distant   from   the   hotel. 

Fine  pickerel  fishing  can  be  had  by  trolling  in 
Lake  St.  John,  the  Grand  Discharge,  and  many 
of  the  tributary  rivers,  some  fish  01  immense  size 
beine  taken.  Those  from  12  to  20  pounds  are 
common,  and  some  weighing  from  30  to  40  pounds 
are  not  infrequently  caught.  Dore  (pike)  of  good 
size  are  also  taken,  and  frequently  large  ouanan- 
iche will  take  the  spoon.  Some  No.  4  and  7 
spoons  of  various  kinds,  and  strong  trolling  lines, 
should  always   be  included  in  the  tackle  outfit.      It 


\ 


1 


w 

03 

pq 

m 
o 

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o 

o 

H-1 

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I  S 

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Ui 

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IN 


en 


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m 
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a, 

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a 

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O 

03 


The  Leaping  Ouananiche 

IS  often  a  relief  to  change  from  tly-fishing  to 
troHing,  especially  when  such  good  fishing  can  be 
had  in  this  way.  The  pickerel  caught  in  these 
waters  are  not  to  be  classed  as  maskinonge,  as  this 
latter   fish   is   never   found   anywhru    here.  ., 

A  visit  of  great  interest — a  jaunc  co  fill  in  a  day 
between    trips— is    a    trip    to    the    reservation    and 
yearly    encampment   of   the   Montagnais   Indians   at 
Pointe  Bleue,  on  the  south  shore  of  Lake  St.  John, 
five  miles  from  the   Hotel  Roberval.      In  the  midst 
of  the  reservation   Is  located  a  post  of  the  Hudson 
Bay   Company       Here    the   Indians    assemble    each 
year  to  dispose  of  the  furs  secured  during  the  pre- 
vious winter,   in    barter  for   the    necessary   clothing 
and   for  provisions   to  carry  them   through  ano.ther 
hunting   season.     Here,  too,  they  build   their  birch 
bark  canoes,  and  arrange  their  hunting  grounds.     By 
the    I  St    of    September,    the    various    families    have 
started    out,    each    to    the    point    selected.       In    all 
directions  they  go,  many  far  to  the  north,  seeking 
the  wilds  of  the   Hudson  Bay  coast.     Once  arrived, 
they    erect    their    simple    cotton    tents,    which    they 
heat    with  a  small  sheet   iron   stove,   and    in    which 
they   live   during  their   winter    hunt.        But    few    of 

55 


I 


O 
H 

o 


-ft 


The  Leaping  Ouananiche 


them  use  firearms,  as  they  successfully  rely  upon 
their  ingenious  traps  for  both  small  and  large  game. 
This  race  of  Indians,  while  of  the  Cree  family, 
differ  in  that  they  are  very  black ;  mostly  Christian- 
ized, they  are  a  particularly  honest,  nomadic  people. 
Their  knowledge  of  this  country,  near  and  far,  is 
perfect,  and  therefore  many  are  selected  as  guides ; 
and  better  workers,  or  more  faithful  ones,  cannot 
be  found.  Nearly  all  speak  French — but  a  few 
English.  In  fact,  French  alone  is  the  language 
of  the  country. 

From  Lake  St.  John  to  Chicoutimi,  the  head  of 
navigation  on  the  Saguenay,  intervene  40  or  50 
miles  of  rapids.  Many  who  prefer  to  return  to 
Quebec  by  steamer  through  the  far  famed  Saguenay 
and  St.  Lawrence  Rivers,  make  the  voyage  to  Chic- 
outimi by  canoe  through  these  rapids.  It  Is  made 
in  a  day,  and  a  grand  and  thrilling  trip  it  is.  Easier 
to  imagine  than '  describe,  it  has  been  made  hun- 
dreds of  times,  and  never  has  a  fatal  accident  oc- 
curred. This  is  owing  to  the  perfect  skill  of  the 
Canadian  and  Indian  canoemen  who  make  the  trip. 
Brought    up    from    childhood    to    handle    a    canoe, 

they    navigate     the    rapids    with     absolute     safety. 

56 


i 


/ 


The  Leaping  Ouananiche 


'. 


/ 


After  the  novice  in  these  waters  has  run  the  first 
few  rapids,  the  fact  that  their  untutored  skill  and 
a  sheet  of  birch  bark  only  separates  one  from 
eternity,  is  forgotten.  By  those  less  venturesome, 
the  journey  can  now  be  made  by  rail,  as  a  branch 
road  was  completed  from  Lake  St.  John  to  Chic- 
outimi  last  vear.  Too  much  cannot  be  said  in 
favor  of  the  Lake  St.  John  country.  Its  resources 
for  hunting  and  fishing  are  absolutely  unlimited. 
Enough  of  both,  as  has  been  proven  beyond  ques- 
tion, is  to  be  had.  A  detailed  account  of  the  many 
trips  to  be  taken,  would  prove  nothing  more  than 
I  have  already  stated,  since  what  I  have  written  is 
deduced  from   actual  experience. 

My  enthusiasm  is  neither  too  great,  nor  unwar- 
ranted. One  cannot  visit  this  immense  country 
and  return  with  any  selfish  feelings.  There  is  room 
for  all,  and  what  I  have  learned  from  experience 
I  am  only  too  glad  to  be  able  to  in>part  ta  fellow 
sportsmen,  who  are  seeking  a  wilderness  where 
sport  of  all  kinds  is  plenty;  where  a  short  or  long 
vacation  can  be  taken  with  equal  success  and  satis- 
faction, and  at  a  minimum  of  expense.  All  this, 
and  more,  can  be  found  in  the  Lake  St.  John  region. 

57 


Chained 


to  Business 


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the  next  best  thing— read  about  it  in  the 
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